PMU Pigment Color Chart 2026: Undertones, Skin Tone Matching & Healed Results

The FNS PMU pigment color chart (2026)

Five core shades cover 80% of appointments. The remaining 20% is corrector work — olive, orange, and rose neutralisers used to shift healed color when the client's skin will pull the base pigment the wrong way.

Shade	Base bias	Best for	Healed color
Blonde	Warm-neutral	Fitzpatrick I–II, blonde/red hair	Soft ash-blonde
Light Brown	Neutral-olive	Fitzpatrick II–III, light hair	Cool taupe-brown
Medium Brown	Warm-olive	Fitzpatrick III–IV, most clients	True mid-brown
Dark Brown	Warm	Fitzpatrick IV–V	Rich chocolate
Black	Cool carbon	SMP, Fitzpatrick V–VI brows	True charcoal (no blue shift)

Correctors (kept alongside the core five):

• Olive Corrector — kills orange/red pull on warm skin
• Orange Corrector — neutralises grey/blue healed brows or old blue tattoos
• Rose Modifier — warms lip pigment on cool-toned clients

How each pigment heals on Fitzpatrick I–VI

The single most common client complaint — "my brows healed orange" or "my lips healed purple" — is a healed-color miss, not a fresh-color miss. The pigment that goes in looks great; the pigment that heals doesn't. This is why you match to healed color, not to a swatch card.

Skin	Fresh appearance	Healed shift	Pigment strategy
I (very fair)	Very saturated	Pulls ashy/cool	Warm the mix, add a drop of Medium Brown
II (fair)	Saturated	Slight cool shift	Blonde or Light Brown, no modifier
III (light)	Balanced	Neutral	Straight Light or Medium Brown
IV (olive/medium)	Slightly muted	Pulls warm/orange	Add Olive Corrector 20–30%

... continues (see below)

Skin	Fresh appearance	Healed shift	Pigment strategy
V (tan/brown)	Muted	Strong warm/red pull	Dark Brown + Olive 30%; avoid pure black in brows
VI (deep)	Very muted	Blue/grey pull if wrong base	Dark Brown or Black + Orange Corrector 20%

Rule of thumb: the deeper the skin, the more the healed color moves warm — because melanin filters cool wavelengths first. Correct proactively with olive on Fitz IV–V, orange on Fitz VI.

Brow vs lip vs SMP — three different undertone rules

Brow pigments — the enemy is warmth. Iron-oxide-heavy pigments oxidise in the dermis and heal orange. FNS brow pigments carry an olive-to-neutral bias built in, so you don't need to correct on Fitzpatrick I–III.

Lip blush pigments — the enemy is a pink-to-purple shift on cool-toned or deeper-skin clients. FNS lip pigments are stabilised with a warm-neutral base; on Fitzpatrick IV–VI, run an olive or brown neutraliser pass first, then the blush shade in a second pass.

SMP pigments — the enemy is a blue-grey heal from iron-based blacks. FNS SMP pigments are carbon-based. They heal true charcoal, dilute cleanly for fading hairlines, and never turn blue at the 12-month mark.

Corrector & neutraliser sequencing

The two-pass system that saves most "difficult" cases:

Warm-pulling brows (Fitz IV–V)

1. Pass 1: base shade + 25% Olive Corrector, low saturation
2. Heal 6 weeks
3. Pass 2: base shade at full saturation, no corrector

Healed brow lands neutral, not orange.

Cool-pulling lips (Fitz I–II, cool undertone)

1. Pass 1: Rose Modifier alone, thin layer
2. Same session: main blush shade over the warmed base

Healed lip lands a true berry-pink, not grey-purple.

Old blue microblading corrections

1. Pass 1: Orange Corrector alone, saturate the blue strokes
2. Heal 8 weeks
3. Pass 2: fresh design in the current target shade

FNS pigment color vs Perma Blend & Tina Davies

Attribute	FNS	Perma Blend	Tina Davies
Brow undertone bias	Olive-neutral (built in)	Warm	Neutral
Lip stability vs pink shift	High	Medium	Medium
SMP base	Carbon	Iron oxide	Hybrid
Glycerin free	Yes	No	No
Corrector range included	Yes (3 shades)	Sold separately	Sold separately
REACH compliant	Yes	Yes	Yes
MSDS per batch	Free	On request	On request

Where FNS is different: undertone correction is built into the core shades so a new artist can pull the labelled color and get a neutral heal — no separate modifier line required for the first 80% of appointments.

How to test a pigment before you use it on a client

1. Draw a 5 mm swatch on your inner wrist with a nano cartridge at working depth
2. Photograph day 0, day 14, day 30 under the same light
3. Compare day-30 to your target — if it drifts warm, add 20% olive; if it drifts cool, add 10% of a warmer base

Every FNS pigment ships with a matching swatch card and MSDS. You should never work on a client with a shade you have not personally tested to healed on skin (yours or a practice patch).

The one-page pigment cheat sheet

• Match healed color, not fresh color
• Deeper skin heals warmer — correct with olive proactively
• Iron-oxide blacks turn blue in SMP — use carbon-based only
• Cool-toned lips need a warming pass first
• Two thin passes always beat one heavy pass